Sights around the vicinity of Tansen
Ghorbanda - Kumal Gau (Potter's Village)
The village of Ghorbanda is on the way to Pokhara from Tansen. It is the best place to see the unique style of pottery making in Nepal. The articles produced here are traditional water pitchers, pots and "Handa" (a vessel with holes in the bottom; used for brewing rokshi, which is Nepali brandy).
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| Ranighat
Ranighat is the palace built on the banks of the Kali Gandaki river by Khadka Shamsher in remembrance of his beloved wife Tej Kumari. It takes about two hours to reach this place from Tansen. On the way, one has to pass through a small settlement called "Hatti Dhunga" (elephant stone).
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Ramdi
A half days walk through fertile landscape shaped by terraced rice fields lead to Ramdi at the banks of the Kali Gandaki. Ramdi is a "Ghat" (cremation place) where people bring their deceased relatives for their final rites. Besides this, Ramdi is famous for its cave temples, where the
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farmers from surrounding villages offer milk to protect their cattle from leopards and jackals.
| Ridi
Ridi, sacredly located at the confluence of the Ridi Khola (stream) and the Kali Gandaki, is visited by pilgrims from Nepal and India who take holy bathes and worship at the temples. Additionally, like in Pashupatinath, in Kathmandu, old people
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arrive and stay here to take their last breath and get cremated at the banks of the holy Kali Gandaki. Furthermore, Ridi is the locality for the biggest yearly fair of the area. The walk down to Ridi will take around five hours, rewarded by beautiful landscape. To return to Tansen, we suggest you takae a bus or jeep.
Bhairabsthan
A pleasant walk along the mountain ridge to the west of Tansen will bring you the alleged largest golden trident of Nepal. After walking roughly 9 kms, you will reach Bhairabsthan, a temple sitting atop a hillock. The temple's statue of Bhairab iis kept hidden, because it's sight is unbearably frightening and it is said that people who catch a glimpse of it are in danger of losing their liver. So even the priests worship the statue from behing a curtain.
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The main days of worshipping for the common people are Tuesday and Saturday. In the yard of the temple you can see the largest golden trident of Nepal, the centre of the ceremonies. From the temple's terraces you again have a beautiful view of the Himalayan range.
| Satyawati Lake
To leave the beaten track and visit the site of an important fair, Satyawati lake, a bit more effort is needed. You have to take a morning bus to Butwal and get off at "Chaubis Mile"(Twenty four miles). From there you first descend to the valley of the river Tinau and then steeply ascend through dense jungle (it deserves the name here) to the pecuilar lake on the top of the mountain ridge. The lake is said to be the home of a goddess. To avoid backtracking and
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to have impressive views of the Himalayan range, you should follow the ridge to the south and then descend through picturesque villages back to the road and take a bus to Tansen.
Fairs
Maghe Sankranti Mela (Ridi Mela), held in Magh (Jan/Feb) in Ridi Bazaar, is the most important fair of this region. The fair, lasting three days, is well known for the sale of local handicrafts and products such as woolen blankets, wooden pots, bamboo products, sugarcane cakes, walnuts, medical herbs and a kind of dried cottage cheese.
Besides the busy trading, a large number of Hindu pilgrims from different parts of Nepal and India take a holy bath in the Kali Gandaki River and worship at Ridikesh Temple.
Satyawati Mela (Night Fair) is held in the full moon night of Kartik (Oct./ Nov) at Satyawati Lake. According to the legend an old goddess lives here, Satyawati Bajai (grandma). Today she is said to be hard of hearing, she possesses supernatural powers. Pilgrims from the surrounding hill districts and Terai attend this mela to ask Satyawati Bajai to fulfil their hopes. For that, they circle the lake three times shouting their wishes for sons, employment, wealth, death of enemies etc to this goddess. Goats and cocks are sacrificed and pigeons are set free. Mute children should drink the waters of the lake to be healed. The fair which starts in the evening, ends before sunrise, so as not to offend the goddess.
Parvas Mela is held on Shivaratri in Fagun (Feb./Mar.) in Parvas, 6kms south of Tansen.
Lalpati Mela is held on Holi in Fagun (Feb./Mar) in Lalpati in the center of Madi valley.
Rambha Pani Mela is held on Krishnaastami in Bhadra (Aug. /Sept.) in Rhamba Pani, 30 kms east of Tansen.
Festivals
It goes without saying that the Palpalis celebrate the Hindu and Buddhist festivals listed in the Nepali festival calendar. But there is a week of special festivals in this area worth mentioning, starting with Janai Purnima at the full moon day in August.
On Janai Purnima, Brahmin and Chetri men change their religious threads, worn from shoulder to waist. Traditionally on this day, the Gai Jatra Festival is announced for the following day.
Gai Jatra (Cow Festival) was launched by a former king of the Kathmandu valley to heal his wife from a deep depression after the death of the prince in a smallpox epidemic. So this festival combines the remembrance of the deceased with an attempt to cheer up the mourners. Families who experienced a death during the previous year form
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processions through the town singing religious songs. Children of the mourning families, dressed like kings and saints, lead some of these processions. Wealthy families may even hire a choir for an impressive remembrance procession in the evening.
Huge artificial cows, made of bamboo, cloth, paper etc. are carried around, accompanied by clowns. These groups perform small ironic and satirical dramas in public squares and entertain the town.
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Gai Jatra is followed by Ropai Jatra (Rice Planting Festival), when farmers of the area show the city people the pleasure of rice planting, "ploughing" the streets of Tansen while singing folk songs.
On the next day's Bag Jatra (Tiger Festival) men dressed as tigers and hunters roam around the town to caricature the favorite hobby of the old rulers.
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For the Chariot Festival, where chariots of Ganesh (elephant headed god of success), Bhimsen (strongest hero) and Narayan (one out of the trinity of Hindu gods) are carried through Tansen, the town inhabitants light candles in their windows and offer flowers, fruit and money to the chariots passing through their houses.
Bhagwati Jatra marks the end and climax of the week of festivals. The goddess Bhagwati, who symbolizes power, supported the fight against the British-Indian troops. People stay in the Bhagwati temple the night through to worship, sing, dance and observe the placing of a statue of Bhagwati into a chariot.
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The following morning government officials, as well as the army, police and many Palpalis make up a large procession through the town.
However, due to the topography of the town the chariots do not have wheels and are not pulled by animals, but are carried by members of a special ethnic group, the Kumal, whose usual occupation is pottery.
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Getting There
From Kathmandu
Daily bus services (duration 8 - 10 hours)
7.00 a.m.: "Sitara bus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
6.30 a.m.: "Sajha bus" leaving from Sajha bus station in Patan Pulchowk.
5.00 p.m.: "Nightbus" leaving from the new buspark in the north of Kathmandu.
You can also fly from Kathmandu to Bhairahawa and take a bus up to Tansen. Unfortunately, there is no direct bus service and you have to change buses in Butwal.
From Pokhara
Daily bus service (duration 6-8 hours) 7.00 a.m. Tourist coach to Sunauli. You have to get off at Bartung junction and take a bus or jeep for the 4-km link road to Tansen.
From Chitwan
There are two possibilities to reach Tansen. Having made your way from the National Park to Narayanghat, you can either catch the "Sitara bus" or "Sajha bus" coming from Kathmandu on its way to Tansen (duration 4 -5 hours), both buses arrive around noon in Narayanghat Pulchowk; or take one of the several buses to Butwal (duration 2 - 3 hours) and change there for a bus to Tansen.
From Lumbini
Unfortunately, there is no direct bus service from Lumbini to Tansen. You have to change buses in Bhairawa as well as in Butwal.
From Butwal
It can be easily seen that Butwal is the most important traffic junction for Palpalis to nearly all destinations. Buses leave every 40 min. for Tansen, as do buses from Tansen to Butwal. The duration of the journey is approx. 2 hours.
From Sunauli
There is a daily tourist coach service from Sunauli to Pokhara. You have to get off at Bartung junction and take a bus or jeep for the 4km link road to Tansen. Several local buses leave Sunauli for Butwal, where you have to change a bus to Tansen.
From Bardia
There is a direct bus service twice a week from Guleria via Kohalpur to Tansen, and daily buses leave from Kohalpur to Butwal, where you can easily get a bus to Tansen. For departure times, connections and length of journey, please ask your hotel or lodge in Bardia National Park.
Accommodation
There are large number of low budget accomodation around the buspark. The approximate cost to stay a night or two around nice hotels range in price between US$5-US$15. "Srinagar", "The Bajra", "The White Lake" and "Gauri Shankar" are some of the decent hotels of this place.
Dining
There are large number of small restauants in the town, selling Nepali dishes and snacks. "Nanglo West" restuarant at Sital Pathi square is one of the excellent restuarants that serves western style, Palpali, Nepali, Indian and Chinese cuisine. Hotel Srinagar provides some western meals too.
More Information
Tansen Municipality Office
Tundikhel, opening hours 10 a.m. - 5 p.m. Telephone: 20109/129
Tourist Information Center
Tansen Municipality runs a tourist information center on the campus road near the buspark. Basic information is available here, concerning in-town hotels, bus connections and tickets etc. Opening hours 11a.m. - 1p.m. daily, except Saturdays.
Money Exchange
The Rastriya Banijya Bank at Makhan tole, near the Tansen Durbar, changes a limited amount of foreign currencies, including US $, German Mark, British Pound, French Franc. It also cashes travelers cheques.
News
The two English language newspapers published in Nepal, "Kathmandu Post" and "Rising Nepal" are available in the town.
Communication
There are several shops and hotels offering national and international fax and telephone services.
Hospital
United Mission Hospital to the east of the town, telephone number: 20111. A number of western doctors of various nationalities are available here.
Cinema
A cinema hall showing Nepali and Hindi movies is situated near the Tansen Durbar.
Possible Purchases
Quintessentially products of Palpa include Karuwa, dhaka cloth and dhaka topi. These can be obtained from many shops in the town.
Information Providers for places to visit in Tansen are by:
PALPA CHAMBER OF COMMERCE AND INDUSTRY.
GETUP PALPA, GROUP FOR ENVIRONMENTAL AND TOURISM UPGRADING.